Jose Gil - San Vicente De La Sonsierra Rioja 2021

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Producer	Jose Gil
Country	Spain
Region	Rioja
Varietal	Tempranillo
Vintage	2021
Sku	12105216
Size	750ml

  

WA

93

CC

94

Jose’s Viñedos en San Vicente de la Sonsierra is sourced from vineyards around the village of San Vicente, all at elevations above 500m. Hand harvested, destemmed, natural yeast co-fermentation in concrete tanks, gentle maceration. A blend of Tempranillo with 20% Garnacha and a tiny percentage of white varieties, this Rioja is co-fermented in concrete tanks, then aged for ten months in Jose’s cellar in San Vincente. Comprising the majority of the total production, Jose feels this wine represents the essence of the place of his birth – forthright, expressive, uncomplicated but far from simple, and something that could only come from his vineyards. Truly an ancestral expression of Rioja.

Jose Gil grew up in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, where his family have been grape growers and winemakers for generations. His grandfather, father, and uncle own Bodegas Olmaza, a small 35-hectare estate famed for its vibrantly traditional “village” wine. Before modern or traditional Rioja, there was a simpler style of whole-cluster, co-fermented, and shortly-aged wines that were as naked and honest an expression of Rioja as one could find. So it should come as no surprise that when José Gil started his own project, he would follow in his ancestors’ footsteps and be more interested in the vineyard than the cellar.

Jose currently farms 5 hectares of vines located in the villages of San Vicente, Labastida, and Briones. Practices are manual and organic although he is not certified. The vines range in age from 5 to 130 years old with the majority Tempranillo, a small percentage of Viura. The oldest vineyard plots a co-planted with tiny percentages of other grape varieties which include Garnacha and Palomino. When the grapes reach the cellar after being harvested by hand, they are fermented either whole-cluster, or partially destemmed. All fermentations are by indigenous yeasts and extraction is gentle. After pressing the wines are racked into 225-300L French oak barrels and transported to the aging cellar in San Vicente.

The village 2021 Viñedos en San Vicente de la Sonsierra was produced with 75% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and the rest white grapes, mostly Viura from vineyards in the middle and higher part of the village. It fermented partly with full clusters and matured 50/50 in concrete and 500- and 600-liter barrels in their cave. This feels quite serious, with ripeness and power, slowly revealing more elegant notes and some floral hints, with an earthy touch. It feels like the grapes ripened thoroughly in the longer cycle and developed plenty of nuances. It has 13.9% alcohol and is medium to full-bodied, serious and balanced, with the stuffing to develop in bottle. 16,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in September 2022.Jose Gil doesn't stop. The two wines La Canoca and El Bardallo moved from single-vineyard wines to paraje, or lieu-dit, wines in the 2022 vintage, which increases the number of bottles to about 3,200 bottles each. There's a new white, which will be released after several years of fine-tuning the style they are looking for. There are new plots from La Canoca in 2023, places that he described as "incredible locations and soil qualities." In 2024, he and his wife leased with the option to purchase 4.5 hectares of very old vineyards (80 and 120 years old) in different locations and soils in Labastida, including one hectare of white planted with different varieties. I tasted the 2021 and 2022 versions of the five reds they produce. The 2021s are superb, but the 2022s, a little juicier and more primary, are not far behind.
There are currently 11 hectares of vineyards, owned and rented. They use 500- and 600-liter barrels that age in underground cellars under the San Vicente de la Sonsierra Castle and have a production of 26,000 bottles. This is one of the most exciting young projects in Rioja.Published: Feb 29, 2024